PRAISEWORTHY POTATO SALAD

Potato salad is the quintessential picnic food, and there are as many ways to make potato salad as there are ants at a picnic.

Of course, it begins with potatoes, but you can't use just any variety. Waxy or low-starch potatoes will hold their shape. Starchy tubers will fall apart when diced.

Depending on what part of the South you're from, you either age the cooked potatoes overnight or you make the salad while the potatoes are warm.
In potatoes that are cooked the night before and refrigerated, the starch coagulates and makes the potatoes smooth and waxy so they do not absorb the dressing, said Mark Sohn of Pikeville, author of Mountain Country Cooking. A potato absorbs the maximum flavor from the dressing while still warm.

Hard-boiled eggs, sweet pickle relish and mustard are standard additions, but anything a cook desires can be stirred in at this point.

The French like to bathe their potatoes in a simple vinaigrette; Germans serve theirs hot; the Greeks use Tzatziki yogurt sauce, and Peruvians use blue potatoes.

One of the most popular potato salads in Lexington is served at Stanley J’s New York Style Delicatessen in Stonewall Shopping Center. It’s served as a side dish with sandwiches, but many people buy it by the pound for potluck dinners.

Here’s a tasty recipe for potato salad.

New-potato salad

• 3/4 cup reduced-fat mayonnaise
• 1 tablespoon freeze-dried chopped chives
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• 1/2 tablespoon celery seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon lemon-pepper seasoning
• 1/2 teaspoon onion powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 1/2 pounds new potatoes

In a large serving bowl, mix together mayonnaise, chives, mustard, celery seeds, lemon-pepper seasoning, onion powder and salt until well combined.
Set aside about 15 minutes to allow flavors to blend. (Or cover and refrigerate as long as 2 days before continuing with the recipe.)

Meanwhile, place potatoes in a large pot with enough salted water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-high, and cook until tender but not mushy. Drain and let cool slightly.

Add warm potatoes to the mayonnaise mixture, and toss gently. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature. Alternatively, cover and refrigerate a minimum of 3 hours or as long as 2 days. Serve chilled.