ALL ABOUT BUBBLE AND SQUEAK
While reading a novel, Martha Lunceford of Richmond was curious about the dish “bubble and squeak” that the author mentioned. She also had heard it on The Andy Griffith Show.
She turned to the dictionary for an explanation. It didn’t provide enough details about the dish, so she sent a question to one of her favorite magazines, Country.
A regular feature in the magazine helps readers locate information, and Lunceford’s request was published. As soon as the publication arrived in the mail, readers responded directly to Lunceford.
“I got at least one letter from every state in the U.S., plus the District of Columbia, plus five foreign countries,” she said. Almost 900 letters.
Many included childhood memories such as this from Vera Dunmyre, who is 76 years old: “I was English by birth from Oxford, England. My Mum and Dad raised us nine kids during the war years and food was very scarce, but Dad always had a garden. Originally Mum was always making something out of nothing. She always boiled extra potatoes and cabbage for the next day’s meal. I never had mashed potatoes until I came to the U.S.A. in 1948.”
Diane New of Wichita, Kan., formerly of Manchester, England, said, “The great thing about bubble and squeak is that there is no recipe. It is simply a dish of leftover mashed potatoes and cabbage, warmed through with a knob of butter, and it is delicious.”
Several people wrote that the recipe got its name from the bubbling and squeaking that takes place while the dish is cooking.
Bubble and squeak was much in evidence during the Depression, since it is an economical dish and also an excellent way of using leftover vegetables. Bits of cold meat can be added to the basic recipe, one letter said.
This is the most basic recipe Lunceford said she received:
• 4 cups cooked and mashed potatoes
• 4 cups cooked cabbage, chopped into small pieces
• Salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 4 tablespoons olive oil
In a large bowl, mix the potatoes and cabbage, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large frying pan, and add the vegetables. Saute over medium heat, pressing down the vegetables so that they form the shape of a flat cake. When one side is well browned, turn and cook on the other side.
You can dress up the dish a little by mixing in some scallions, milk, and cheese. Makes 4 servings.
“This is the most elaborate recipe I received, a one-pot meal,” Lunceford said.
Bubble and squeak
• 5 pounds corned beef brisket
• 1 medium onion, halved
• 1 clove garlic
• 6 whole cloves
• 8 peppercorns
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 cup cut celery, 2-inch pieces
• 8 medium potatoes, peeled
• 8 whole white onions
• 2 pounds Brussels sprouts
• 1 (16 ounces) can whole baby carrots, drained
• 2 tablespoons minced parsley
• Mustard sauce
Place corned beef in large pot and cover with cold water. Add halved onion, seasonings, and celery. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover, and simmer 3 to 4 hours or until tender. Skim excess fat from liquid and remove corned beef.
Cook potatoes and whole onions in corned-beef liquid, covered, until nearly tender. Add Brussels sprouts, cover, and cook 15 minutes longer. Add carrots and heat through.
Place beef and vegetables on a hot platter. Sprinkle parsley over potatoes. Serve mustard sauce on the side. Makes 6 to 8 servings.
Mustard sauce
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 1 teaspoon dry mustard
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup water
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1/4 cup vinegar
• 1 teaspoon horseradish
• 2 egg yolks, beaten
In top of double boiler, mix together cornstarch, sugar, dry mustard, and salt. Add water. Cook and stir over direct low heat until mixture thickens and boils 1 minute.
Remove from heat and mix in butter, vinegar, and horseradish. Add egg yolks. Cook and stir over boiling water until sauce thickens slightly. Makes about 1 1/3 cups.
